Imagine this. Coconut trees, crystal clear water, warm weather, amazing dive sites, car free streets and cheap delicious sea food. Welcome to Capurgana and Sapzurro.
I heard about this region from locals and fellow travelers when I was traveling in Colombia. It is not so easy to get to this area. You can only get there by air or sea. So the plan is to travel from Medellin to Apartado by plane and then take a mini bus to Necocli. Stay in Neclocli over night and catch the speed boat the next morning to Capurgana.
There is a local Colombian airline Satena which flies directly from Medellin to Apartado. Alternatively you can also take the long grueling bus from Medellin to Necocli which takes almost 10 hours. From what I heard from fellow travelers the bus is not worth the money. Flying is only slightly more expensive than a buying a bus ticket. So if you can afford flying I highly recommend that over taking the bus.
Medellin to Apartado
Flight time – 45 minutes (bus time is about 8-10 hours)
Round trip cost: $300,000 pesos (about $100 USD)
The great thing about flying by Satena is that it leaves from the domestic airport (Olaya Hererra) located right in the center of the city. So if you are staying in Laureles it is a short taxi ride to the airport.
Apartado to Necolci
Bus time: 1:30 – 2 hours
Round trip cost: 1000 pesos
Once you get to Apartado airport you can catch a local mini bus just outside the airport. The bus ride to Necocli is pretty nice as you pass a big farm of
Neclocli to Capurgana
Fast Boat/Catamaran: 2 hours
Round Trip cost: 140,000 pesos
You can buy the ferry tickets at the wharf the day before you leave or early in the morning. The ferry does get pretty crowded especially during the weekend. I advise you to book the tickets a day in advance.
Bring / buy a big garbage bag to protect your bagback/handbag from splashing water during the rough ride from Necocli to Capurgana. If you are prone to sea sickness take some medicine before your ride. I actually enjoyed the ride even when it was bumpy. It felt like an adventure ride.
Once you get to the ferry terminal in Capurgana you will notice that the town itself is pretty small. It is completely free from cars. Only two wheeler motorbikes are allowed. You will see it sparsely. You can easily walk everywhere. You can either book your entire stay in advance through booking.com or just book the first night online and then shop around once you get there. There are many guest houses that are not available online. And they are pretty cheap with a nice view.
There are some local convenience stores where you can buy groceries, water and alcohol. Also tap water is not recommended.
One activity you must do when you are in Capurgana is to hike your way to Supzorro. It is one of my favorite hikes in Colombia. You can actually hike all the way to La Miel in Panama stopping in Supzurro for a relaxing swim and a seafood lunch break. But be prepared for the extreme humidity in the air. If you plan to eat there I recommend getting there by 2 pm as the sea food places run out of food fast. I also recommend staying in Supzurro for a couple of nights. While Capurgana is more lively, Supzurro is more quiet and romantic getaway. They have some nice guesthouses with the ocean view for under $20 per night.
On your return journey from Supzurro to Capurgana you can hire a motor boat if you are not keen on hiking all the way back.
Another great hike that you can do is to head south of Capurgana. I had a night stay booked in Paradice in Aguacate. The walk from Capurgana to Paradice is spectacular filled with Palm trees, rocks and vegetation. I stopped by a sea side bar with a nice swimming pool overlooking the Caribbean sea. The bartender guy offered me some fresh coconut water which was delicious.